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How Repair Exhaust Manifold Aluminum Threads

Written By Saturday, 12 February 2022 Add Comment Edit

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Stripped frazzle manifold commodities holes in head

I accept two holes that are stripped in the head where the exhaust manifold bolts upward.  Would it exist better to put heli-coil in the bolt holes or drill out and tap to a larger size bolt?  I am running the stock exhaust manifold and so I would more than likely have to open up the holes on the flange if I went with the drill and tap route.  I'm only non certain how well the heli-coil will concur up with the heat.  Any info would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Brandon

Re: Stripped frazzle manifold bolt holes

Reply #ane –

I take two holes that are stripped.  Would it exist meliorate to put heli-coil in the commodities holes or drill out and tap to a larger size commodities?  I am running the stock frazzle manifold so I would more than probable have to open up the holes on the flange if I went with the drill and tap route.  I'chiliad just not sure how well the heli-coil volition hold up with the heat.  Any info would exist appreciated.

Cheers,

Brandon

My second Zuk, I just put bolts thru and a lock nut in the back, the i inside(closest to the engine) is a Hurting in the !@@#% to put, but
it works

Re: Stripped exhaust manifold bolt holes

Respond #2 –

My second Zuk, I but put bolts thru and a lock nut in the back, the one inside(closest to the engine) is a Pain in the !@@#% to put, but
it works

Aye, that is a good idea.  Which I will exist doing for the lower flange.  I volition edit my first mail service and mention the head.  Because it'due south the holes in the head that are stripped.  Sorry for the bad mail service...

Re: Stripped frazzle manifold commodities holes in head

Answer #3 –
Is it fully stripped, or are the threads simply messed up? Like when you  put the stock bolt in does it not catch, or does it just not bolt in all the mode? I recently had problems with the bolts comming out stripped and ugly and not wanting to go in. For 10 bucks you tin can become a tap for this (m8 by ane.25 thread I believe) and redo them. I got new bolts to go with it (socket head type aka ones you lot put on with an allen key) and it did the trick. They don't need to torque down as well heavily, so information technology seems to be fine. Now, if the bolts won't fifty-fifty thread on and just pop loose, and so I imagine you'll take to redrill and retap information technology for bigger bolt. Seems like  yous should have plenty of room to practice this, as long as you don't get too deep with the drilling.

JH

Re: Stripped exhaust manifold bolt holes in head

Reply #4 –

Is it fully stripped, or are the threads just messed upward? Similar when you lot  put the stock bolt in does information technology not catch, or does information technology just not commodities in all the manner? I recently had problems with the bolts comming out stripped and ugly and non wanting to go in. For 10 bucks yous tin can get a tap for this (m8 by i.25 thread I believe) and redo them. I got new bolts to go with it (socket head type aka ones y'all put on with an allen key) and it did the trick. They don't need to torque downwards besides heavily, and so it seems to exist fine. Now, if the bolts won't even thread on and but popular loose, then I imagine you'll have to redrill and retap it for bigger bolt. Seems like  you should have plenty of room to practice this, as long as you don't go too deep with the drilling.

JH

The threads are pretty much gone, the bolt won't even begin to pull tight.  I have decided to open up upward the hole using a letter S drill bit (.339") and use a straight fluted tap and tap to a 3/8-16 thread.  I have access to enough of standard tools, the reason I am not going metric.  I feel this volition provide a much improve fix than the heli-scroll.  Cheers for the assist.

Brandon

Re: Stripped exhaust manifold bolt holes in head

Respond #five –

The threads are pretty much gone, the bolt won't even begin to pull tight.  I have decided to open up the hole using a letter S drill chip (.339") and use a straight fluted tap and tap to a iii/8-16 thread.  I have access to plenty of standard tools, the reason I am not going metric.  I feel this will provide a much better fix than the heli-curlicue.  Thanks for the help.

Brandon

I'm gonna have to disagree with you, (suprise!  ), on  this beingness a improve gear up than the heli-roll. Like I said before, I would merely drill and tap it, equally information technology'due south cheaper and information technology's what I've got on manus. In no manner is it better, though. The heli-coil is far superior, particularly where there's rut involved. The nature of aluminum, every bit yous know, is to expand and contract immensely with oestrus and cooling cycles. Steel, not and then much so. What happens, if you don't use anti-sieze or something, is that aluminum expanding effectually the commodities has nowhere to become merely into the piffling crevices among the threads on the bolt. Well, it sticks there. This is what nosotros call "galling." When you pull the commodities out, it takes the threads with it. With the coil, any and all galling is kept on the outside threads of the coil, where it won't do any harm. The steel bolt has a steel thread to torque into. And since the coil has a larger OD than the original bolt, you can typically utilise more torque than the original threaded hole. This is why many racers use them in engines. You become the lightness of aluminum, simply retain the force of steel. Case in bespeak, VW instance-savers. VW went to this pattern in 73, I believe, after the 10mm caput studs still kept pulling out when the motor got hot. It's null more than a heli-coil inserted in the cake by the manufacturing plant for the head studs to thread into, therefore amend handling the expansion of the jugs when the motor got warm.

-Brandon, I know you know almost of this, but it was mostly for anyone else who may not. Don't call me aroused, delight!

Re: Stripped exhaust manifold commodities holes in caput

Reply #vi –
Then young, so angry...arrrggghhh!

Re: Stripped exhaust manifold bolt holes in head

Reply #vii –

I'1000 gonna take to disagree with you, (suprise!  ), on  this beingness a improve fix than the heli-coil. Like I said before, I would simply drill and tap it, equally it's cheaper and it's what I've got on hand. In no way is it better, though. The heli-coil is far superior, especially where in that location'southward heat involved. The nature of aluminum, as y'all know, is to expand and contract immensely with heat and cooling cycles. Steel, not so much then. What happens, if you don't employ anti-sieze or something, is that aluminum expanding around the bolt has nowhere to go but into the little crevices among the threads on the bolt. Well, it sticks there. This is what we telephone call "galling." When you pull the commodities out, information technology takes the threads with it. With the coil, any and all galling is kept on the outside threads of the coil, where it won't do any harm. The steel bolt has a steel thread to torque into. And since the coil has a larger OD than the original commodities, you tin typically apply more torque than the original threaded hole. This is why many racers use them in engines. You get the lightness of aluminum, but retain the force of steel. Case in point, VW instance-savers. VW went to this pattern in 73, I believe, after the 10mm caput studs still kept pulling out when the motor got hot. It'south nothing more than a heli-roll inserted in the block by the factory for the head studs to thread into, therefore better treatment the expansion of the jugs when the motor got warm.

-Brandon, I know you know most of this, simply it was mostly for anyone else who may not. Don't call me angry, delight!

Acrimony, what is anger?  LOL

You're correct on your argument, I guess I should have said an easier and cheaper solution than the heli-curl.  But with the thread forming fluted tap information technology does provide a better thread than your standard tap, much deeper thread cutting.  Shouldn't exist any problems as I always apply anti-sieze.  Anyway, got the head bolted on, exhaust manifold, timing marks aligned and chugalug/tensioner installed.  All that is left is the cover, pullies, and intake and hopefully all volition exist good.  Will know tomorrow for sure!!

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